2026 Update: Data Summary
This review distinguishes between traditions, cosmetic or food uses, and results that have been truly studied. A study on an extract or an isolated ingredient does not automatically demonstrate the efficacy of the finished product.
Precautions: The benefits presented are cosmetic or traditional. Evidence varies depending on the ingredient and formulation; perform a patch test and follow the label.
References consulted: source 1.
The history of oud
Mystical, deep, captivating: oud is much more than just a fragrant ingredient. Its use dates back several millennia. Mentions of agarwood can be found in some of humanity's oldest religious texts, notably in the Bible and in Buddhist traditions. Burned during purification rituals or used to accompany meditation, oud is a bridge between the spiritual world and the senses.
In Muslim culture, oud has become a pillar of oriental perfumery. But its influence now extends far beyond those borders. Over the last decade, it has also captivated Europe and Asia, as much for its mystical aura as for the olfactory richness it brings to modern compositions, for both men’s and women’s perfumes.
Origin and nature of oud
Oud is not an essence like any other. It is born from a rare and fascinating phenomenon: when the tropical Aquilaria tree is infected by a fungus (Phialophora parasitica), it secretes a dark, fragrant resin in reaction, forming what is known as agarwood or aloeswood.
This rich, aromatic wood forms mainly in Southeast Asian countries such as Thailand, Laos, Vietnam, Burma, and India. But it remains extremely rare: only one in a hundred trees develops this resin, which makes oud precious… and very expensive. To preserve the resource, some growers now induce the infection artificially, and the Aquilaria tree is protected in several regions of the world.
Oud in contemporary perfumery
I first discovered oud in Japan, as part of the perfume ceremony, kōdō, where fragrant woods are associated with poems. Later, in the Middle East, its use seemed much more intense to me: hotels, malls, homes, everything seems impregnated with this fragrance.
In this region, oud is king. It is present in almost all compositions, from traditional perfumes to major brand bottles. And for good reason: its woody, dark, almost animalic scent is considered sensual, enveloping, and memorable.
Traditionally, bakhoor is used, a mixture of oud shavings and other resins that are burned to scent clothes, hair, and rooms. The scent lingers for a long time, and it is common to layer other perfumes over this base.
A rare (and often imitated) luxury
In luxury perfumery, particularly niche perfumery, true oud is rarely used pure because of its exorbitant price — sometimes more expensive than gold. Instead, perfumers create accords inspired by its scent, by combining other essences such as cedarwood, sandalwood, patchouli, vetiver, incense, or even cypriol, an intense and aromatic woody note.
Often, these compositions are enriched with leathery, animalic, or even smoky notes, contrasting with fresher top notes like citrus, or floral hearts (orange blossom, rose, jasmine) to soften and feminize the blend.
The distinctiveness of oud is that it runs through the entire structure of a perfume: you smell it from the very first notes, and it persists until the base, as a trail.
Conclusion
Oud embodies luxury, tradition, and power. Sometimes controversial, often admired, it fascinates with its complexity. Between natural rarity, ancient spirituality, and olfactory modernity, it is now an essential emblem of exceptional perfumery.
